How sweet it is!

Sunny weather means a vintage year for local cider

by Susan Mikula Campbell
Niagara Wheatfield Tribune, October 4, 2007
Lewiston Porter Sentinel, October 6, 2007

Kermit A. Kelsch and his son, Dale Kelsch, bottle freshly pressed cider at the
Cherry Bank Farm Cider Mill in Sanborn. Cider is sweeter than ever this year,
according to the New York Apple Association. (photo by Janet Schultz)

It’s a banner year for cider, both in Western New York and across the state.

“We’re talking some sweet, sweet cider this fall in the orchards and supermarkets from our farmers,” said Jim Allen, president of the New York Apple Association.

An abundance of sunshine throughout the summer and fall generated a higher-than-normal sugar content – known as brix levels – in apples from New York. That has meant sweeter cider, right from the start.

Dale Kelsch of Cherry Bank Farm Cider Mill in Sanborn explained that the sugar content of apples determines which blends of apples are used each year to make cider. Every year, the cider is a little different, adjusted to the taste of the apples.

“Last year was very wet. It was hard to come up with a good sugar count, so it (the cider) was palatable,” he said.

Sandy Tuck of Sanger Farm in Youngstown, said they usually start with a lot of Gala apples that don’t need as much time to sweeten as other varieties. Still, she said, the first couple of pressings tend to have a little tartness to them. Not so this year.

“Everyone that tries it, loves it,” she said.

Both Tuck and Kelsch work at their dads’ farms and grew up with apples and cider.

“There was no pop in our house, growing up,” said Tuck.

Glenn Sanger sends his apples to a mill in Medina to be pressed. Then, it’s sold at his farm market, 852 Route 93, Youngstown.

Cherry Bank Farm, 5140 Townline Road, Sanborn, is run by Kermit A. Kelsch, like his father Nicholas, before him. As at other farm markets, customers can buy apples or stop by the bakery for pies, breads, cookies, caramel corn, candied apples and jam, but cider is their main business. Almost all of their apples go into cider. It’s pressed on site, using a (modernized) cider press that’s 100 years old or better, Dale Kelsch said, in a barn that’s more than 100 years old, too. They press cider as needed, usually about every other day.

Kermit A. Kelsch, owner of Cherry Bank Farm Cider Mill, shows off a jug of
freshly pressed grape juice, while son Dale has the farm’s main product, fresh
sweet cider at the store at 5140 Townline Road, Sanborn, just down the hill
from Niagara County Community College. (photo by Janet Schultz)

“The quality is unbelievable. It’s the best cider I’ve ever had,” said Ray Crawley, manager of Goodman’s Farm Market in Wheatfield, where Cherry Bank Farm cider also is sold.

Kelsch said the secret is that they don’t use any drops or bad apples. They’re clean and crisp. “You can’t let them get soft or you get a lot of sediment.”

Cider is a fresh product, so it should be treated almost like milk, Kelsch said. Cherry Bank Farm cider is ultra-violet pasteurized to take out the bad bacteria, but it still has natural yeast. Kept refrigerated, it should last a week to 10 days.

“You can’t drive around in your car with it for three to four hours and expect it to last long. You wouldn’t do that with a gallon of milk,” Kelsch said. “Get it refrigerated or put it in a cooler.”

Tuck said she always encourages people to buy extra cider to freeze. She freezes cider in ice cube trays. Then in the morning, she makes smoothies by chopping up peaches, plums or whatever kind of fruit is available in a blender and tossing in a half tray of cider cubes.

“I have four children to feed. I make it in the morning and send everybody off to school with it,” she said.

The New York Apple Association’s new cider Web site, www.nycider.com, has a complete directory of New York cider mills and farm stands that sell locally-made cider.

The site provides cider facts, such as:

• As of January, new state legislation requires that all cider makers treat cider to assure that it is 100 percent safe and wholesome.
• Like apples, cider is good for you. Research from Cornell University says that cider retains the health benefits of a whole fresh apple.
• In early America, cider and hard cider as we know it today, was produced on many farms and even used to barter or trade with. When stored in oak barrels and put away to ferment, it became a year round drink. It’s known that George Washington had cider included in supplies used in the Revolutionary War.

The site also includes recipes that feature cider. Here’s a sampling:

• Cider Syrup: To make a cider syrup, boil or reduce down to a thicker syrup consistency. Substitute this for some of the sugar, water or milk that you would add to recipes. Plan on reducing by a 4 to 1 ratio, or a gallon down to one quart by slowly simmering it on the stove. Try it on pancakes, ice cream and desserts. When baking a cake, replace some of the water in the batter with the cider syrup to give the cake a rich caramelized flavor.
• Cider Tea: Brew tea with cider instead of water.
• Sparkling Cider: Mix cider with carbonated water or club soda.
• Soups: Onion and split pea soup work well with cider in place of stock or water.
• Gravy: Substitute half the stock or water with hard or sweet cider.
• Vegetables: Cook carrots, corn and lima beans in cider.

Cider Basting for Turkey

Ingredients:

1 cup cider or hard cider
1 cup orange juice
1/2-cup lemon juice
1/2-cup butter
Crushed basil

Directions:

Use for a whole turkey or turkey breast or just to moisten stuffing.
Warm butter in a pan.
Add cider or hard cider, orange juice and lemon juice, all flavored with a bit of crushed basil.
Cook over low heat until dissolved and baste turkey.

Hot Cider Wassail

Ingredients:

One-half gallon cider (8 cups)
2 cups orange juice
1 cup lemon juice
5 cups pineapple juice
1 teaspoon whole cloves
2 cinnamon sticks

Directions:

Combine all ingredients in a large pot.
Bring to a simmer.
Strain and serve hot in coffee cups or mugs.
About 20 servings.

courtesy of New York Apple Association