Comic Book Café takes flight

Review and photos by Joshua Maloni
Grand Island Dispatch, October 19, 2007

As a child of the ’80s, this writer grew up pledging my allegiance to the red, yellow and blue: The Man of Steel. Knowing both Superman’s Earthly and Kryptonian names, as well as the impact of red, green, black and silver meteor rocks (Kryptonite) on him, I would say I’m something of a fan.

As such, I was deemed the perfect choice to review the new Comic Book Café, an offshoot of Say Cheese, on 1771 Love Road.

I heard it was cool, but what does that mean? I found out when a coworker brought me one of the location’s silver Superman key chains. The keepsake, bearing the Christopher Reeve-era “S” logo is now a permanent fixture in my car.

Faster than a speeding bullet, then, I was off to try the food and gawk at the goods.

With me on my adventure was El Padre, he who raised me upon my exit from a space pod. OK, technically, it was a baby crib at the hospital, but I probably didn’t know the difference at that time.

A comic-themed eatery, in this critic’s opinion, should have three things. A larger-than-life figure should greet guests (the café features a giant Spider-Man on the storefront; a 6-foot-plus Superman in the doorway, and an oversize Batman further into the building); there should be plenty of collectibles; and the food should be better than the average pizzeria. Fortunately, Say Cheese owner Kevin Slachciak is of the same mindset.

A comic collector since he was about 6, Slachciak, now 39, has amassed 10,000 books, toys and pieces of memorabilia. Innumerable items from his collection line the walls, the menu, the back comics room – even the bathroom – at the restaurant.

“The kids are just excited to be here,” he says of guests.

It’s a safe bet most adults are pretty stoked, too.

My guest and I slid into a booth, admired the décor, and flipped through the colorful menu’s pages.

Our appetizer of choice was the sweet and spicy shrimp ($5.99). Ten, tailless crustaceans, beer battered, fried and covered in a red sauce, soon greeted us. Each piece was crispy and had just the right amount of kick.

“Not real, real hot,” El Padre said of the zesty dish.

While still enjoying the starter, our main dishes arrived. His was the Chicago-style beef sandwich ($8.99), a large grinder with piles of meat, slow roasted and topped with Italian spices and provolone cheese. It was accompanied by au jus and horseradish, and had “a nice flavor,” he said.

Yours truly opted for the “create your own” burger. In a Tex-Mex mood, this $8.49 burger would be built with Monterey Jack cheese, fried onions, bacon and barbecue sauce.

Both entrees came with a generous amount of french fries. The chips resembled a thicker McDonald’s potato stick. They were hot and salty and demanded to be eaten in bunches.

“I like the fries because they’re nice and crisp – not overdone,” El Padre said. The giant burger required two hands to be lifted mouth level and, upon first bite, proved to be juicy and tender. The toppings were ample and each was prepared to perfection. Interestingly, it first appeared the sandwich was missing the barbecue sauce. Further inspection revealed a small cup of sauce on the bottom of the plate. In other words, then, it was my call as to the level of dressing. Brilliant. Slachciak says he spares no expense and leaves no stone unturned in finding top-notch ingredients. “What sets us apart is our quality of food,” he said. “It’s not just a cheapo burger.” Intriguing menu options that will merit a return visit include Italian garlic parmesan chicken wings ($7.99 for 10) and the smoked gouda bisque ($2.49 cup/$3.49 bowl), a soup made with pureed, roasted red peppers; smoked and shredded gouda; whole basil leaves; crushed garlic; finished with a touch of cream, and topped with Monterey Jack cheese.