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Casa Antica open for business by Joshua Maloni
Sitting inside his newly refurbished Italian eatery at 490 Center St., amidst new tablecloths, freshly painted walls and new bar glasses for the new glass bar, Calogero Soldano reflects on the closing of Villa Fortunata's, the restaurant his father Jack and former partner Filippo Inglima operated at that very site until it closed three months ago. "I know we were better than that," he says. "We had a good product and people liked us." Despite a reputation for good food, a family atmosphere and regular entertainment from the likes of The New York Rat Pack and Niagara University Theatre, Villa Fortunata's closed on New Year's Eve because it was no longer profitable. With less traffic in Lewiston during the winter months, and the parting of partners in chef Jack Soldano - Calogero's father - and host Inglima, it was no longer possible to keep the restaurant open. While Villa's closing was something of a surprise to Lewiston residents, it was no shock to Jack's children, Calogero (known as Charlie), 20, and Angela, 24. They saw the writing on the wall long before the establishment served its final dish. "We were fairly busy when we started. Certain choices possibly could've affected business," Angela said, adding, "winter months are slow." She had waited tables during Villa's peak, but left to work at Seneca Niagara Casino when jobs were cutback. "Everyone lost the passion," Charlie said. Enthusiasm Returns
Remarkably though, it was when the business finally died that the Soldano family's excitement was resurrected. With a push from her fiancé Giuseppe, Angela decided she and Charlie could reopen the building as "Casa Antica," a family friendly, 20-something inviting, Italian restaurant. "We had a good opportunity," Angela added. "She (building owner Darlene DiMino) knew us (and we all got along)." "I've always had this restaurant thing in my blood," Angela continued. "It's very exciting. Every day I get more and more happy with it." So too, Charlie wants to succeed in the town where his family and friends live and work. "I love the environment; I love the community. It's a beautiful town," Charlie said. "We see a future here," he said.
"I love cooking - it's a great way to spend time with family," Charlie said. His menu will be similar to Villa Fortunata's - albeit priced considerably cheaper - with new dishes including black ink pasta (pasta cooked with squid), veal chop valdostana (veal broiled, cooked with artichokes, prosciutto, onions, potatoes, white wine and melted cheese) and tuna specialties including grigliata mista di pesce (grilled swordfish, salmon and tuna in a balsamic and lemon vinaigrette). "I like to do more contemporary things," Charlie said. "I like to play with flavors." Further additions from the kitchen include a children's menu for young diners; pastas made with wheat or rice flour for health conscious consumers; and bottled sauces for Food Network-watching do-it-your-selfers everywhere. Moreover, Casa Antica will provide an appetizer menu for the 490/Charlie's Hideaway bar it shares space with. That will allow patrons even more room to roam and mingle with friends while they dine or wait to be seated. The Bar's the Thing
Among the design changes at Casa Antica, there is the new "Buona Fortuna" room, a private sitting area that resembles an old world family dinner table - it's situated where the former service bar was located. And, of course, there's the new bar, which is centrally located with a big glass mirror and a half dozen bar stools. It faces the window wall, and its stylish "Casa Antica" inscription is visible to passing motorists. "(Not having a bar,) that affected customers coming in here," Angela said. "People (now) have the option to drink." "Drinking is big for people my age," Charlie added. Despite the additions, will the new venue work? With Villa Fortunata's closing, what makes the Soldanos think they can succeed in the same building, with the same style of food? "I felt things weren't run the right way," Angela said of her predecessor, noting it can be difficult with partners, but "being run by a family, you help each other out." She said in slower times she could wait tables; her father will cameo as cook every so often and her brother is already heading the kitchen staff. "We'll be more on top of things," Charlie added. "It's going to be a good atmosphere." Casa Antica is now open for dinner (4 to roughly 10 p.m., daily). It's grand opening, featuring Rat Packers Frank and Dean, is Thursday, April 6. For more information, call 754-2581.
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