Sweet and savory Muscoreil’s a must

Review by Joshua Maloni
December 8, 2005

Up until a few weeks ago, I couldn’t even pronounce “Muscoreil’s” let alone tell you where it is or what its food tastes like. But, I was told by a reliable source, one who gave birth to me in fact, that cousins have raved about it for years. Moreover, coworkers noted that if you have kids, it’s the place to go for party goodies.

Since I don’t have kids and don’t see said cousins all that often, it was a nice thought but nothing more. Driving to Division Street in North Tonawanda to patronize a “bakery” seemed a bit much.

Having all but written the eatery off (NT is like a billion miles from my home in Lewiston, after all), the motivation to explore Muscoreil’s came when a menu found its way to my desk. Intrigued by the artsy coverwork, and bored to tears with fast food, I flipped through the pages, thanked God, Santa and the inventor of paninis, and made for the highway in a move reminiscent of the Road Runner escaping Wiley Coyote.

To my surprise, the “bakery” had moved to a more spacious and customer friendly location on Niagara Falls Boulevard near the Wheatfield-Tonawanda border. When I arrived, it was evident the “bakery” was much more than the bread factory I had initially pictured in my mind.

Glass case after glass case of fancy and delicious looking desserts – and a wedding planning room of all things – led to a ramp up into the bistro. It would be easy to just stop, stare and salivate at the selection of cakes, cookies (as many as 60 varieties each day), biscotti, tarts, cannoli, brownies – you see where I’m going here? A weaker man might not have made it to the bistro, but the lunch selection was oh-so-tempting.

The reasonably priced menu – dishes go for between $5 and $8 – features an assortment of options, including panini sandwiches like the “Little Italy,” the pairing of thinly sliced Genoa salami, baked ham and cappicola, topped with roasted peppers, onions, provolone cheese and Italian dressing; bistro wraps such as the turkey avocado, which combines oven roasted turkey, avocado, tomatoes, lettuce and “special” ranch sauce; and “Off the Griddle” sandwiches like the quarter pound bistro burger and the ham and cheese melt.

I tried the “LaForta,” a panini sandwich featuring generous portions of tangy Italian sausage, sweet red peppers and melted provolone cheese on thick cut, crusty sourdough bread – which was baked fresh in-house. A side of marinara sauce, sliced strawberry and cantaloupe, accompanied the sandwich, which defied small lunch portion logic.

The satisfying combination, like the proper pairing of colors on the walls’ paintings, was truly a work of creative genius. Filling and leaving a savory taste in my mouth bite-after-bite, the “LaForta” was worth the shorter-than-expected drive.

What’s more, despite constant customer traffic, there was plenty of space to sit or walk around, and the wait staff took time to assist each customer, warn of hot soup and provide extra napkins when needed.

Muscoreil’s Bistro and Dessert Galley has opened at 3960 Niagara Falls Blvd., North Tonawanda, across from Kwik Fill and Ponds Unlimited. Co-owners and artists David Muscoreil and Ernest Ramstetter have expanded their culinary offerings since moving from Division Street earlier this year.

The establishment features dozens of racks worth of freshly made, never frozen desserts in the main room, and a bistro adjoining. Lunch is served in a warm, family-dining-room-feeling area (guarded by a Santa Claus sandwich board with soup specials written on it), from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., Monday through Saturday, and features paninis, wraps, salads, burgers and a make-your-own-sandwich menu.

Plated desserts are served “gallery style” by candlelight from 7 p.m. to midnight, Wednesday through Saturday in the bistro. The creations are the work of 30 artists and bakers, and many come from family recipes. Each is a work of art, both conceptually and in taste.

“Our artistic edge gives us an edge in the business,” Ramstetter says.

With upwards of 50 percent of the business coming from wedding cake orders, Muscoreil’s also features a private wedding planning showroom.

Additionally, there is a small retail area where cards, stationery and children’s items are sold alongside gingerbread houses, homemade jam, pancake and waffle mixes.

On top of all of this, the work of Western New York artists is on display and for sale.

Despite its upscale look, it’s a family-friendly, college student-affordable establishment.

“We draw higher end clients – we also get the college guy taking his girl out for dessert,” Ramstetter said. “We don’t believe in gouging our customers.”

For more information, call 692-9081.