Area restaurants provide good
summer eats

Review by Joshua Maloni
June 2005

If there’s one thing we Western New Yorkers know about and prepare well, it’s food. This ability is magnified in the warm summer months (or month, weather depending) when grills are assembled, tongs shined and “Kiss the Cook” smocks worn like Superman’s cape.

Among the top eats this time of year are:

The Silo – 115 N. Water St., Lewiston

It seems like a great idea now, but what would possess a man to turn a deserted coal silo into a restaurant?

“He was out on the boat in 1996,” Alan Hastings explains of his father Richard, a developer and former civil engineer. “He looked up at the abandoned coal silo and said, ‘Wouldn’t that be a great place for an ice cream stand?’ ”

Richard went home, drew up a sketch and presented it to the Village of Lewiston Board of Trustees, which approved the project. Hastings the senior made Alan - a successful car salesman - operator, and soon after, his vision of the silo became “The Silo,” northern Niagara County’s most unique summer eatery.

Nestled on the waterfront, The Silo features a wrap-around deck overlooking the Niagara River, situated above the boating entrance and fishing dock. Inside, much of the building’s original wood remains, and historic pictures of Lewiston are mounted on the counters. As you enter the building, you’ll notice several large menus, before seeing a food line to the right and a popular ice cream stand to the left.

Alan, a former YMCA worker, is a cooking enthusiast, and his menu offers some unusual fare. “I used to make incredible things on a camp stove,” he says. His know-how paired with some “bored” imaginings, led to the restaurant’s signature meal, “The Haystack.” The over-sized sandwich features sliced, seasoned rib-eye steak topped with melted mozzarella cheese and crisp hash browned potato strings.

“We were trying to find something unique … we were playing around with the menu,” Alan said.

A fan of barbecue, Alan’s menu also features hamburgers, hot dogs and “Silo chicken,” a large, fresh breast, seasoned, char-broiled and topped with hickory bacon, American cheese and ranch dressing.

The Top of the Falls Restaurant – Niagara Falls State Park

Michael Barnes is a man of his word. The general manager of Delaware North’s Goat Island operation, Barnes promised big changes to the restaurant and concession areas when he took over in 1998. His initial fix-up projects pleased the state Parks Department so much that, within five years, it gave DNC a 20-year contract to continue its tourist business, as well as access to the visitor’s center in Prospect Park.

While each of the concession stands, the snack bar and retail shops have undergone drastic facelifts, it is his two main eating areas that are most impressive.

To the Top of the Falls Restaurant, already known for its flavorsome menu, Barnes and co. added an attractive circular bar kitty corner to its entrance, and built two outdoor decks overlooking the Horseshoe Falls.

Inside the restaurant, earthy tones highlight the tables, booths and chairs, while waterfall glass separates rooms.

More importantly, the menu has improved. Head chef Brian Sterner and restaurant manager Keith Jedlikowski have created New York food with a California feel and regional influence.

“We wanted to highlight local flair, as well as Native American influences,” Jedlikowski said. To that end, there are menu items with organic ingredients, such as the Oneida corn chowder, made with roasted sweet corn, tomato, onion, bell pepper, rice and venison; “The Rapids,” a baked, spiced steelhead atop a bed of baby greens, with dried fruit, walnuts and toasted coconut, all tossed with honey lime cilantro dressing; sweet potato fries with maple butter; “Niagara” fish and chips; and venison chops.

Dishes are complemented nicely by one of nine local wine choices and finished with a freshly made dessert from Lewiston’s Village Bake Shoppe.

The TOF features lunch, dinner and patio deck menus.

Its sister station, the indoor/outdoor patio at the visitor’s center, features grilled items outside, sandwiches inside, as well as a coffee/milkshake kiosk.

While hundreds of thousands of people visit Goat Island each year, it is also a place for locals to walk around, shop and eat. In an effort to draw in area patrons, the TOF has added live music to its repertoire. Starting next Friday and continuing each week through Labor Day, a new band will perform from 7 to 10 p.m., followed by fireworks courtesy of the Canadian government.

The Fyfe & Drum – 440 Main St., Youngstown

“Youngstown,” Fyfe and Drum owner/operator Cliff Lang says, “is becoming a culinary destination.”

Known for its pizza, wings and sandwiches, “The Jug” and the waterfront, Youngstown has become an increasingly popular summer destination. Leading the charge is the new Fyfe & Drum. Acknowledged as a long-standing, unspoiled eatery with a top-notch menu of American food, the restaurant offers a front porch dining area, as well as a spacious backdoor patio, with second floor music, food and drink specials.

“I like to keep the locals happy,” Lang says. “People like to sit outside.”

There, they will find traditional summer fare including dogs, burgers, chicken, potato salad, and special treats such as a pig roast, clam slam and a beer truck during the annual regatta.

While “above-the-hill” patrons are plentiful – the Fyfe regularly hosts parties and events for senior groups, youth, businesses and bikers – it is Youngstown residents that have caused the restaurant to be successful.

“We’ve got the locals’ confidence,” Lang said, noting his establishment garners good word of mouth for its quality food, service and décor.

Schooners at Pauley’s Sunset Grille - 346 River Road, North Tonawanda

Western New York is full of “hidden gems” - or so every other business owner says of their establishment. It’s gone past the point of cliché. So, to say Pauley’s is a secret treasure wouldn’t mean much these days.

The truth of the matter is, however, that passers-by wouldn’t necessarily notice the new eatery’s charms without exploring its River Road location. At first glance, it’s a bar, and nothing more than a bar. But, upon further review, there’s a side patio tucked away - and that’s just the tip of the iceberg.

Behind the restaurant is the Niagara River - not surprisingly, Pauley’s is on River Road, afterall - and an extensive outdoor seating area. There’s a wooden shelter, picnic tables, uncovered seating and benches. Best of all, perhaps, is that the restaurant is situated on 500 feet of dock, which makes it an easy stop for boaters.

“I grew up on the water, I have a boat, I love the water,” said new owner Paul Parwulski, who bought the restaurant after a memorable third date on the boat with his wife and co-worker, Kolleen. “(We said,) ‘Man, wouldn’t it be fun to own this place.’ ”

The Grand Island native and former Invitrogen worker purchased the restaurant - a known North Tonawanda watering hole - last year, and remodeled it over the winter. The new, more family-friendly Pauley’s opened in May.

“We’re converting it into more of a waterfront restaurant,” Parwulski said. “We want to convert it so that everyone can enjoy it.”

Pauley’s menu consists of traditional summer fare, including dogs, burgers, chickens and fish fries. More impressively, it features an ice cream counter, and a clam bar on weekends - something quite popular with locals.

“It’s amazing how much people like clams,” Parwulski, not a fan himself, said.

The restaurant features live music on the weekends, and Parwulski hopes to build a balance between college crowds and family guests.

Adrian’s Custard & Beef - 2335 Grand Island Blvd., Grand Island

If there’s one thing we Western New Yorkers know about and prepare well, it’s food. This ability is magnified in the warm summer months (or month, weather depending) when grills are assembled, tongs shined and “Kiss the Cook” smocks worn like Superman’s cape.

Michael Jordan once said it’s not summer until he’s had his hot dog. This writer agrees: It’s not summer until Grand Island residents have had a hot dog from Adrian’s.

The eatery, known moreso for its custard and roast beef, was purchased in 2002 by Kevin Lipp because owning such an establishment “is fun - that’s why.” He took the building - and the food preparation strategy - from original owners Peter and Adrian Figliotti.

Lipp, a Grand Island resident successfully battling multiple sclerosis, uses certified Angus beef - slow-cooked overnight - for his sandwiches and Wardynski’s brand hot dogs.

The roast beef comes in two sizes: the ample junior and the stuffed regular. Beef is tender and moist and comes on a choice of roll.

Custard is distributed en masse, often to children who frequent the family-style outdoor restaurant. Despite a rise in dairy costs over the past few years, ice cream prices remain reasonable.

Best of all, per personal choice, is a hot dog and French fry lunch. At $4.25, it’s less than most “value meals.” Hot dogs, which can be ordered with jalapeno pepper and cheese inside, or regular of course, are cooked to perfection, with just the right amount of grill markings and a snap when you bite into them.

Curly-Q French fries come in a large white boat, and nicely complement the meat.

Other summer favorites:

• Hibbard’s Custard – 105 Portage Road, Lewiston: Almost as well known as the village itself, the stand offers ice cream, custard, milkshakes, ices and more.

• De-Dee’s Dairy – 715 Niagara Falls Blvd., Town of Niagara: Niagara Falls’ favorite sweet treat. The ice cream dream features a well trained, swift-moving staff serving up scores of deliciousness.

• Mississippi Mudd’s – 313 Niagara St., Tonawanda: A whole complex of summer food, it’s mastered summer grilling.

• Wilson Boat House – 57 Harbor, Wilson: A great view, and a great menu - a perfect way to spend an afternoon.