‘Second Helping’

Village Inn looks forward to summer

Review by Joshua Maloni
Grand Island Dispatch, April 18, 2008

The Village Inn at 1488 Ferry Road.

Cooking is in the Carr family’s blood.

Gourmet dishes are the norm with family matriarch Joanne, a culinary columnist for the Dispatch, and with her six children. Her youngest, Mike, runs The Village Inn, a popular diner on Ferry Road.

“My mom was always an influence with us,” Mike says. “She always made creative things – even when times were tough.”

His sister, Karen Keefe, says, “That’s the heart and soul of the family – her wonderful gift of comforting people with food.”

That lesson has been successfully passed on to Mike who, in this rough economy, offers Island families an affordable, home-cooked meal at The Village Inn.

The family atmosphere has taken an unexpected twist this year. In February, Mike’s nephew, Leon, was involved in a snowboarding accident and passed away. While patrons knew the 29-year-old as a master soup maker, Mike says Leon was like a brother.

“It’s been unusual (not having him here),” Mike says.

The family took time to console one another and, with the help of Island well-wishers, Mike says business is just about back to normal. “We’re up and running and ready to go,” he says.

“Second Helping” recently visited the eatery on consecutive Tuesdays hoping to sample a Carr creation. A quick glance at the menu revealed both lunch and dinner selections, traditional favorites (burgers, wings, wraps) and items that could simply be described as unusual (sweet potato jalapeno bisque, anyone?).

“It’s a gourmet approach to family dining,” Karen says. “(Mike) has a great set of taste buds.”

In looking at the menu, my interest was piqued by the steak-in-a-shell (grilled sirloin served over fresh greens with sharp cheddar and black olives on a crispy shell; $8.95) and seafood croissant (shrimp, crab meat and mayo served on a croissant with lettuce and tomato; $5.75). However, I couldn’t help but feel taunted by headings stating “Best Burger in Town” and “Best Wings Anywhere.” The menu was daring me to try a hamburger and a batch of wings. So, that’s what I did.

My 10 wings ($6.50) were the equivalent of 15 at almost any pizzeria. Giant bird wings greeted me, covered in sauce, and accompanied by both celery and carrots and a cup of blue cheese. The meal was meaty – literally and figuratively. Off Island, plump wings are a challenge to come across. Finding a restaurant that offers more than a dollop of blue cheese, and celery and carrots (you rarely get both), is like finding a capable Buffalo Bills quarterback. It’s once in a blue moon.

I found the chicken wings to be a hit, but would the burger pass the mustard?

The Village Inn offers both 1/3 and 1/4 pound patties. Available toppings include bacon, cheddar, blue cheese, mushrooms and mozzarella. My charbroiled hamburger was quite delicious. One third of a pound of seasoned beef was covered in cheddar and crispy bacon ($4.50 base; $1 more for my toppings). It came with potato chips and a pickle. French fries would be better, but the existing sides serve as a nice complement.

Mama Carr undoubtedly taught Mike not to brag, but in this case he should. Both his wings and burger live up to the Carr tradition of gastronomic greatness.

“We try to meet what the customer wants,” Mike says.

My stomach concurs.

The Village Inn, 1488 Ferry Road, serves lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. The restaurant offers daily specials, an ample and ever-changing assortment of soups, and a full cache of desserts. For more information, call 773-5030.

•The Carr family is planning a disc golf tournament fundraiser in Leon’s honor. The event will be held at Beaver Island. The tentative date is Saturday, July 5.